How to make Miniature Candles
       Tom Fassett
 
   
This is a set of instructions for building miniature candles from styrene tubing and rod.  I have used a number of different materials for these including thick straws, cotton swab shafts, and just about any other small, stiff plastic tubing I have come across.  I like the styrene best as it has the best look and seems to be the fastest and easiest material to use.  If you can't find styrene tubing at your local craft store, try a model railroad or hobby shop.  Most well stocked hobby shops carry something like it.  I use Evergreen Styrene as it is the most easy to find and I am familiar with it.
 
 
 
 
Here are the basic materials I use for making miniature candles.  Evergreen Styrene makes various sizes of plastic tubing and rods that can be cut to size for just about any scale or size of candle you want.  This is also a great project for all those "bits and pieces" left over after cutting out other projects.
FIGURE 1
 
The first step is to cut the round pieces to length.  I do this with a hobby miter saw so I get a nice clean edge.  A number of people have asked me what the piece of wood is for.  I use this as a stop when cutting multiple pieces the same length.  I just take a piece of scrap balsa wood and cut it so it fits quite snug between the sides of the miter box.  After moving it around for a while, it gets loose and I just make another and use the old piece for something else.  Nothing gets wasted on my workbench...  ;- )
FIGURE 2
 
Here are a variety of cut pieces with the ends sanded and waiting for the next step.  If I want a "new" candle, I cut the edge at a 90 degree angle.  If I want a "used" candle I cut it at an angle.  This will make more sense later on.
FIGURE 3
 
To close off the end of the tube, I glue a flat piece of styrene to the end.  Note that I am not concerned with a perfect fit nor do I try to file the end piece to fit the cylinder before I glue it.  I just want the flat piece to be larger than the cylinder.  This will make sense in the next step (and saves a huge amount of time...)  I use styrene weld to glue the pieces together.  You can also use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) for this.  I like the styrene weld because it "melts" the two pieces together and there is no joint line later on.  The styrene weld does take a lot longer to cure though.
FIGURE 4
 
After the glue has dried, I take a sharp, flat X-Acto knife blade and trim the "overhang" from the flat piece off.  I just keep "nibbling" at it until it is fairly round.  It does not have to be perfect as I will sand the edges smooth in the next step.
FIGURE 5
 
This is what the piece should look like after cutting with the X-Acto knife.  I use a foam backed sanding board to round the edges to match the cylinder.
FIGURE 6
 
After I am satisfied with the end, I use a pin vise to drill a small hole where the wick will go.
FIGURE 7
 
After I drill the hole for the wick, I insert a piece of small wire, glue it with cyanoacrylate and cut it the proper length.  If the candle is to appear new, I paint the wick white.  If it is to be used, I paint the wick flat black.
FIGURE 8
 
Here are the steps for making a "used" candle.  If I want a used candle, I use one of the cylinders that were cut at an angle.  I glue a much thicker piece of flat styrene to the end and cut this out just as I did the non angled piece in figure 5.
FIGURE 9
 
I then use the Dremel with a small grinding stone to "hollow" out the melted part.  This is why it is important to use a thicker piece of styrene for the end as you will remove a decent amount of thickness in the center.  Take a look at a real candle to get an idea of how the wax melts first in the middle leaving a depression.  This will give you an idea of how to carve the plastic on the end.
FIGURE 10
 
After I have carved the end to my liking, I use some gesso to simulate melted wax that has dripped down the side.  Be sure that the heaviest concentration in on the "low" side of the top angle, just as it would be on a real candle.
FIGURE 11
 
Here are a number of finished candles--both new and used.  These in this picture are 1:12 scale and would be fairly large candles (not tapers).  They vary from a scale 6" to over 12" in height and are about 3" wide.
FIGURE 12
 
 


I have made all sorts of candles this way, including colored ones.  I usually seal the candle with a thin coat of clear gloss as it gives it that "depth" that a normal candle has as light reflects off the semi-translucent wax.  For colored candles, I usually airbrush a fine wash of color over the styrene before putting the clear gloss coat on.  You could use a brush but be sure the paint goes on smooth and thin or you will end up with a "lumpy" candle.
I have also made some lighted candles using fiber optic elements for the wick.  I painted the exposed fiber flat black except the very tip which I left bare.  I ran the fiber down through the base and into a piece of furniture  where the bulb was hidden.  I ended up with a bright point of light at the very end of the wick which looked very much like a flame.  I have put the bulb right in the candle but it is a lot of work to keep any light from "leaking" out.  The best idea I came up with here was to insert a small metal tube or foil inside the hollow candle.  At first I sealed the top completely to stop any light from getting through.  Once I did not get it sealed correctly and a little light "leaked" out just at the top.  This looked even better as it gave the candle a reflected glow just at the top beneath the fiber "wick,"  just like a real burning candle has.  Mistakes do have their value...  ;- )

Enjoy,
Tom Fassett