Faux Finishing...Let's Get Started!
Terms & Techniques by Lisa Neault

In Minis on the Move I wrote of my encounters with some faux finishes. This do it yourself article is going to be more informative, so you can figure out which faux finish it is you wish to achieve. Here are some regular terms that refer to the different finishes:

1. Sandwash: This is a term referring to a special paint used to create a sandy finish using specialty paint. It is usually applied with a roller brush, in degrees.

2. Glazing: There are several techniques, explained in this article later, in connection with glazing. Glazing involves using a base color, with contrasting top color. A special paint product, glaze, is mixed with the choice colors and techniques to create a soft textured look.

3. Crackle: My favorite of all. A base coat is applied, and then the crackle finish is applied after base coat. When painting full size, crackle would usually be allowed to dry for an hour, but in miniature, anywhere from ten to fifteen minutes is the dry time depending on how big your project happens to be. Depending on how weathered you wish the crackle to look, can thin the paint with water (acrylic paint) and apply thinly, or apply heavily for heavy crackle effects.

4. Pearlescent & Metallic: These finishes add lovely effects to glazing, crackle, using a variety of techniques such as sponging, dragging, rolling, and ragging. The metallic come in a variety of colors, gold, silver, & copper to name a few, and give an interesting textured look combined with glazing or crackle textures. Pearlescent colors and metallic finishes are usually used on trims, accessories, picture frames, and metalwork.

Now that we have some basic finishes to play with under our belt, let's move on to the techniques and tools used to achieve these effects. It is important before your begin, to decide on your color choices, where the different finishes will be used, and sections taped off with painter's tape or artist's stencil tape so you will not damage finishes already dried.

Sponging:  One of the easiest to do. Tools are anything from the sponges found in the dollar store, to the pricey sea sponges at the local decorating stores and places like Lowe's and Home Depot. After base coat is applied, use your sponge to dip into your contrasting color and dab pm the wall. Interesting texture can be created using different pressures on the sponge itself. In order to keep a subtle pattern, do not squeeze or push down too hard onto the surface.

Ragging:  This is a classic look that creates a lacy, elegant look. Old t-shirts can be used to add or remove paint. When ragging on, dip the water dampened cloth into the color and wring out, then gently dab the cloth onto surface like we did with the sponge. Again, remember not to push or squeeze the rag too hard, as we want the pattern to repeat it.

Bagging:  Saran wrap, in small bunches, plastic grocery bags, or plastic yellow newspaper bags work well for this. Use a bunched up cloth inside the bag and press it on and off the wall that is already painted with your base coat.

Stippling:  This technique is great for anything...clays, paint, etc. Use a cheapie paint brush and lightly dip the brush into your contrasting color, and make little stabs onto the project. This will produce little dots of paint on a wet painted wall, and create a texture. A shoe brush, old toothbrush, or a wire brush will produce some interesting effects in miniature. The walls should be wet when attempting this technique.

Dragging:  You can buy a dragging brush, or wallpaper brush, but a regular paintbrush or a piece of steel wool on the wet paint will work just as well, just be sure your brushes or tools are clean when attempting this technique. Start at the top, dragging your sponge or brush downward into a straight line.

Combing:  There are a variety of combs available in the paint section of Lowe's and Michael's on the stencil aisles. They usually consist of a flat piece of rubber, with three different combs on them, to achieve a variety of combing effects-wide, fine- and medium. In miniature, buy a package of cheap combs from the dollar store—a rat tail comb is really great for this effect. Rake the wet coat of paint with your comb, (again, make sure it is clean) and experiment with patterns across and pulling downwards, for a variety of combed textures.

Feather Dusting:  This is used by dipping a feather duster into the paint for full size rooms, and dabbing on the paint. It creates an unusual effect; a small duster found at the dollar store might work, or for a really unusual look, dip different kinds of feathers, such as ostrich and peacock feathers and drag them across the painted surface with a contrasting color. The technique for using feathers to create a faux look is also used in marbleizing.

Marbleizing:  Use a white feather, very possible to find at your local craft store in packages. Do not use colored feathers, or found feathers, as they might contain bugs and the colors will bleed. Drag the tip and lightly drag across paper towels to wipe off excess. To create a veined look, drag across the project. Smaller feathers should be used if marbleizing a table or floor, so it will be in scale. Use the bagging technique next, and then add more veining.

These are a few of the techniques used in faux finishing. Some I have had more luck with, and some look better after finished than when you begin. The important thing to remember is that doing a faux finish takes time and patience to achieve the realistic look you want.

Home Depot and Lowe's are just a few places to begin. If you are making a scene that needs different materials aged, weathered, and textured, always check your local craft store or Wal-Mart first—the savings will surprise you. Many of the different finishes I mentioned can be found in smaller quantities than at Lowe's or Home Depot. Now here are a few of my own recipes for weathering:

Coffee and tea:  Take that old half drank pot of coffee or tea, re-warm it in the microwave, and use a sponge brush and dip your paper or fabric in it. For best results, do not use coffee or tea with sugar or additives in it.  For further weathering and better drying time, hang the paper, or fabric on the clothesline.

Bleach:  Cheap and readily available! Bleach is great for aging fabrics, and even wood, used in moderation. Dilute the bleach with water, and avoid breathing the fumes. Hang outside or place in a sunny location to dry.

India ink and alcohol:  This is an old tip I gleaned years ago as a kid. Add several drops of India ink to a bottle of regular rubbing alcohol. Paint it on your wood to create a weathered grey look. Looks really stunning for a haunted house.

Tools:  Wood burner and tea lights.  I use these tools to add a singed or burnt look on fabrics, paper, wood, and leathers. Tea lights are easy to use, because they can be placed on a table and the corner of the fabric, paper, and wood and can be gently singed. Simply touching the material into the flame is all you want to do.

Acrylic paint washes:  Black and burnt umber paint washes are wonderful to achieve a worn look on furniture and polymer and air dry clay projects. Weak washes applied sparingly and allowed to dry in between always work.

Whitewash:  Remember when Tom Sawyer whitewashed the fence? Whitewash products are available in the craft and paint stores. You can make your own whitewash by diluting Folk Art Titanium white with water, and applying in washes.

These are a few of my weathering techniques. If you are unsure about aging that dress, piece of furniture, or that wonderful kit you just made, experiment with scraps or material and wood before doing these techniques on a good piece. Remember that it is important to let these projects dry completely in between the steps mentioned, unless working with wet paints.

I hope these terms and techniques have explained my experiences with different paints and weathering options that are available to the novice. Some I have had fun with, success with, and as always, there is always that finish that does not quite satisfy. Remember, this is supposed to be fun and relaxing, so it’s only paint and the wood is your  sketch pad. The important thing is not to be intimidated by techniques that can be reproduced for pennies on the dollar in miniatures.

Have fun with Faux!